Hi folks...
Just a reminder that the puppies are ready for their next set of vaccinations!!
Hope your bundles of fluff are happy and well!
Virginia Breeder of Schnoodle puppies - a non shedding, hypoallergenic dog breed.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Teaching Your Puppy to Follow
Between 8-16 weeks is the perfect time to teach your puppy to walk with you off leash. The puppy is very insecure at this stage and will naturally follow you like he would his mother. So take advantage of teaching him that you are the leader.
To do this, take your puppy to a safe place. A place where he can walk off leash without any danger of cars. Perhaps an enclosed park or wooded area is best. Walk along and let him follow you. If he wanders in another direction, resist the urge to go after him. In fact...you should never chase your dog at any time. That becomes a game of chase that will be a great reward for his running off. Don't do it! Instead walk more quickly away from him. The younger he is, the closer he will stick with you.
As he grows older he will be more and more independent. At some point he will just wander just out of sight. At this point, (if you are in a totally safe place), hide from the puppy. As soon as he notices you are not around, he will worry and try to find you. As soon as he finds you, give him a treat from your pocket. Praise him and make a big deal about his being lost and being so good to find you.
For this to work, you have to be at the exercise consistently from the time they are young. You don't want to take an older dog out and hide....without any preliminary practice...otherwise you just might not find him again!
If you make the effort to find a time and place for this exercise, from the beginning of 8 weeks and on...your puppy will be much safer in the long run. If he should get out the door, or you should drop his leash, you won't need to worry that he will run away. He will be convinced that his poor mom is very prone to getting lost and he had better keep his eye on you or he will lose you.
To do this, take your puppy to a safe place. A place where he can walk off leash without any danger of cars. Perhaps an enclosed park or wooded area is best. Walk along and let him follow you. If he wanders in another direction, resist the urge to go after him. In fact...you should never chase your dog at any time. That becomes a game of chase that will be a great reward for his running off. Don't do it! Instead walk more quickly away from him. The younger he is, the closer he will stick with you.
As he grows older he will be more and more independent. At some point he will just wander just out of sight. At this point, (if you are in a totally safe place), hide from the puppy. As soon as he notices you are not around, he will worry and try to find you. As soon as he finds you, give him a treat from your pocket. Praise him and make a big deal about his being lost and being so good to find you.
For this to work, you have to be at the exercise consistently from the time they are young. You don't want to take an older dog out and hide....without any preliminary practice...otherwise you just might not find him again!
If you make the effort to find a time and place for this exercise, from the beginning of 8 weeks and on...your puppy will be much safer in the long run. If he should get out the door, or you should drop his leash, you won't need to worry that he will run away. He will be convinced that his poor mom is very prone to getting lost and he had better keep his eye on you or he will lose you.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Nibbler's family comes to get Chloe!
On Friday of last week, Nibbler from last years litter came with his family to pick up Chloe. It was so awesome to see how beautiful Nibbler had grown up to be. He was so friendly and excited to be here. Of course, I highly doubt that he would actually remember us. But it was almost as if he remembered Dixie!
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| A happy family! Nibbler sure looks excited to meet Chloe. |
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| Nibbler has a beautiful white silky coat. |
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| He was so excited to visit Dixie. |
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| Look at this handsome boy!! It makes a breeder proud! |
Last week....our last pup photos!
The pups were so much fun last week, as they were at the peak of their energy right before they left us. It was hard to photograph them because they didn't stay in one place too long. Nonetheless, we managed to take a few pictures of them. So here are the last photos of our pups before their new families came....
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| Group Hug! |
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| Jet enjoys a back scratch. |
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| Chloe plays with my son. |
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| Coco wants some love. |
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| Yoshi found a little rope in the grass. |
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| Max at 7 1/2 weeks. |
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| Dixie still allowed the pups to nurse for very short periods of time. You can see how big they have become, next to her. |
Friday, September 24, 2010
Low Blood Sugar- Be Aware!
Some dogs, especially smaller breeds can be susceptible to stress, which can cause a condition of low blood sugar, called hypoglycemia. In small breed puppies from post-weaning to 4 months of age, the most common form of hypoglycemia is called Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia. Even a brief period of fasting in a small breed puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic "attack."
What are the symptoms: One of these attacks may appear as weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, or seizures. Additionally if your puppy is lethargic, listless, or not interested in eating, stress and low blood sugar may be the cause.
What to do: If your puppy appears to have an attack, a small dose of Maple syrup may help your puppy recover. Do not wait to administer, as the puppy may not make it to the veterinary. In severe cases intravenous glucose administration is required.
Stress and hypoglycemia can cause dehydration and can lead to death. If your puppy shows signs of stress, you can use a quick remedy for this: Pedialyte (or generic electrolyte replacement formula) can be purchased at WalMart and is an effective quick remedy for stress & hypoglycemia. Gatorade or similar electrolyte sports drinks can also be utilized. Even a quick remedy of plain sugar water can be used, if you don’t have anything else available. If he will drink the fluids on his own, allow him to do so!
Please note: Improper administration of fluids by syringe or any other means can result in choking or aspiration and can lead to aspiration pneumonia.
What are the symptoms: One of these attacks may appear as weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, or seizures. Additionally if your puppy is lethargic, listless, or not interested in eating, stress and low blood sugar may be the cause.
What to do: If your puppy appears to have an attack, a small dose of Maple syrup may help your puppy recover. Do not wait to administer, as the puppy may not make it to the veterinary. In severe cases intravenous glucose administration is required.
Stress and hypoglycemia can cause dehydration and can lead to death. If your puppy shows signs of stress, you can use a quick remedy for this: Pedialyte (or generic electrolyte replacement formula) can be purchased at WalMart and is an effective quick remedy for stress & hypoglycemia. Gatorade or similar electrolyte sports drinks can also be utilized. Even a quick remedy of plain sugar water can be used, if you don’t have anything else available. If he will drink the fluids on his own, allow him to do so!
Please note: Improper administration of fluids by syringe or any other means can result in choking or aspiration and can lead to aspiration pneumonia.
Health Guarantee and Preventative Care
We guarantee that your puppy will be sent home with you healthy and free of diseases to the best of our knowledge. We have had a recent veterinary good health report to further ensure the health of these puppies for you. If you take your puppy to a licensed veterinary within 3 days after your date of purchase and the vet finds an unforeseen congenital abnormality, it is your options to return your puppy for a full refund. You must present to us a written health report from your veterinary stating the defect.
If your puppy is exposed to an infectious disease after it leaves here, we cannot be held responsible, and this is not covered under the health guarantee.
We also cannot guarantee that your puppy will never develop any health problems, just like a pediatrician cannot guarantee that a child will never develop any health problems in the future. Some things are just not able to be predicted. Our parents are free of diseases, disorders, and health problems, or we would not breed them. That means the puppies are less likely to develop problems. However, we cannot guarantee that puppies will never develop a problem.
Please Be aware that vaccinations sometimes fail for various reasons, and a dog does not develop full immunity to some diseases until they are a full year old and have had all their puppy shots, including a booster at the age of 1 year. If you are not willing or able to make sure that your puppy gets ALL of his scheduled vaccines and boosters, please do not purchase a puppy. The ideal method of guarding your new puppy against illnesses is to keep it away from other puppies less than a year old, older dogs who have not had vaccines, any dog who is ill, and places where other dogs have been doing their business or other dogs have been ill until your puppy is at least a year old and has had his/her final booster. This isn't practical or possible, in many cases.
When you buy a puppy, you will receive a shot record booklet. You can put future shots, and vet information inside the envelope and keep it for future reference. Always, take the booklet with you to the vet's office. That way, he will know the vaccines, wormers, etc., that your pet has already had and will not inadvertently give him something the puppy doesn't need. We normally do not allow a puppy to leave here until 3 days after receiving wormer treatments.
Please note that the stress of a new home and environment can cause a puppy to have lower immunities for up to 10 days. He is at greatest risk for developing illness during this time period. Additionally, it is not uncommon for a puppy to stop eating for a few days. He then may become at risk for low blood sugar. I will follow with a post about this condition.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Proper socialization between Puppy and Kids
We hear a lot about the importance of socialization in a puppy. The time between 6 to 12 weeks is most pivotal for the puppy in his socialization with people. It is important that the puppy is exposed to good experiences with people of all ages during this time, since it does imprint upon the puppy for life.
I would like to give a few pointers about this socialization during these early months and and beyond. With kids and puppies there is a double responsibility. You have a responsibility to keep the child safe and you have a responsibility to keep the puppy safe. You want to teach young children respectful ways to play and treat the puppy, and you want the puppy to learn to play safely and to have good experience with children. You certainly want both kids and pups to grow up with positive experiences.
The first point on this topic is supervision. The puppy is in many ways like an infant. You wouldn't leave an infant alone with a child that was not trained or old enough to be extra careful. So supervise the children who spend time with the puppy....like a hawk. If they are not following your rules for extra care, put the puppy or child in another room. I was happy to have my laundry room right off of the kitchen. It was a great place to put the dog, to give him a break from rambunctious kids. If the dog is the rambunctious one, putting him in the laundry room send him a quick message as well.
Some kids learn about respect quicker than others. Also be wary that children will not always follow rules that they have learned when the adult is out of the room. I once observed a friend's child terrorize their new pet for fun...my kids told me it was an ongoing problem and there seemed to be no repercussions from the parents. Sadly, the pet grew up to terrorize people and was never friendly to any one.
When I was rearing our first puppy, in our home with a toddler, I would always supervise. The visits between puppy and baby were relatively short, because the baby was too young to treat the puppy properly. After a few minutes of intensely watched playtime, I would put the puppy in his crate. I would look for naptime, or times when the baby was less active to let the puppy run free.
For the older kids (visiting children and my own) , I also keep a close eye. Until I know the child is responsible and well trained I do not allow them alone with the dogs. Especially when they have visitors who are excited and running about. The natural things for kids to do is to run along with the puppy or dogs chasing at their heals. The puppies will nip at a childs heals. That could end up in a child getting injured, and the puppy certainly developing bad habits. I've also noticed some older kids who should know better, like to tease puppies to make them get excited and bark. This too is a very bad situation and should not be allowed to happen.
And not only kids but adults need to be watched. I wanted to socialize our first puppy to many different people, but unfortunately, some people just need to be avoided. My neighbor for one, thought it was funny to scare our puppy, towering over him like a bear, every time he came to the door. Our Toby did not come out improved by that situation. He learned to be suspicious of men....and as an adult dog, he bit my neighbors boot when he came billowing down his driveway toward our kids.
One idea is to carry treats in your pocket that you can give to people when they meet your puppy for the first time. If they give the puppy a treat he will certainly learn to enjoy meeting new people. Mini Schnauzers by nature, get very excited when people come to the house (whether or not they are familiar). People can sometimes interpret that excitement as aggression. Be careful to carefully supervise the situation at the front door. It is the most difficult to train properly. (After trying to train the dogs to behave properly for years, I myself, have just got in the habit of putting the dogs in the laundry room when guests first arrive. It saves me a lot of commotion and excitement at the front door.)
So please, supervise...and supervise... not for one day..or a week, but maybe even years. Be especially attentive during the first year, as the experiences will certainly affect the stability of the dog for his lifetime.
I would like to give a few pointers about this socialization during these early months and and beyond. With kids and puppies there is a double responsibility. You have a responsibility to keep the child safe and you have a responsibility to keep the puppy safe. You want to teach young children respectful ways to play and treat the puppy, and you want the puppy to learn to play safely and to have good experience with children. You certainly want both kids and pups to grow up with positive experiences.
The first point on this topic is supervision. The puppy is in many ways like an infant. You wouldn't leave an infant alone with a child that was not trained or old enough to be extra careful. So supervise the children who spend time with the puppy....like a hawk. If they are not following your rules for extra care, put the puppy or child in another room. I was happy to have my laundry room right off of the kitchen. It was a great place to put the dog, to give him a break from rambunctious kids. If the dog is the rambunctious one, putting him in the laundry room send him a quick message as well.
Some kids learn about respect quicker than others. Also be wary that children will not always follow rules that they have learned when the adult is out of the room. I once observed a friend's child terrorize their new pet for fun...my kids told me it was an ongoing problem and there seemed to be no repercussions from the parents. Sadly, the pet grew up to terrorize people and was never friendly to any one.
When I was rearing our first puppy, in our home with a toddler, I would always supervise. The visits between puppy and baby were relatively short, because the baby was too young to treat the puppy properly. After a few minutes of intensely watched playtime, I would put the puppy in his crate. I would look for naptime, or times when the baby was less active to let the puppy run free.
For the older kids (visiting children and my own) , I also keep a close eye. Until I know the child is responsible and well trained I do not allow them alone with the dogs. Especially when they have visitors who are excited and running about. The natural things for kids to do is to run along with the puppy or dogs chasing at their heals. The puppies will nip at a childs heals. That could end up in a child getting injured, and the puppy certainly developing bad habits. I've also noticed some older kids who should know better, like to tease puppies to make them get excited and bark. This too is a very bad situation and should not be allowed to happen.
And not only kids but adults need to be watched. I wanted to socialize our first puppy to many different people, but unfortunately, some people just need to be avoided. My neighbor for one, thought it was funny to scare our puppy, towering over him like a bear, every time he came to the door. Our Toby did not come out improved by that situation. He learned to be suspicious of men....and as an adult dog, he bit my neighbors boot when he came billowing down his driveway toward our kids.
One idea is to carry treats in your pocket that you can give to people when they meet your puppy for the first time. If they give the puppy a treat he will certainly learn to enjoy meeting new people. Mini Schnauzers by nature, get very excited when people come to the house (whether or not they are familiar). People can sometimes interpret that excitement as aggression. Be careful to carefully supervise the situation at the front door. It is the most difficult to train properly. (After trying to train the dogs to behave properly for years, I myself, have just got in the habit of putting the dogs in the laundry room when guests first arrive. It saves me a lot of commotion and excitement at the front door.)
So please, supervise...and supervise... not for one day..or a week, but maybe even years. Be especially attentive during the first year, as the experiences will certainly affect the stability of the dog for his lifetime.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Puppy Food
The best food for the puppies right now is California Naturals dog food. This is what they have been eating. It is best not to change their food immediately, as they are experiencing enough stress and change.
I will divide up the remainder of my puppy food (5 ways) to send some home with you....but I also wanted to let you know where you can buy it. Right next door to Meadows Farm, on Route 3, is Booth Feeds. This is on the block immediately before the Rite Aid where you turn....so it is on your way! They sell the puppy food there. You could by a 10 lb bag...or a 40 lb bag. Just tell them what you want, they will pull it from the shelf and put it in your car for you. Very convenient and fast!
The pups should be fed three times a day. (the crate is a good place for mealtime) A suggested schedule is 7 am, 12 noon, and 5 pm. By not feeding after 5 pm the pup is more able to make it through the night without having to go outside. It is very important that you feed them often so they don't suffer low blood sugar. (I will write a post about that soon.) Feed the puppy wait 15 minutes, offer water, and then take him/her out to go potty, then spend 30 minutes to play with puppy. Keep to this schedule until about 14-18 wks of age. At this time you can switch to 2 meals a day.
Also please note that their immunities will be at their lowest for the first 10 days that they are home, because of stress and other changes. Treat them with care and they will get through this time just fine.
I will divide up the remainder of my puppy food (5 ways) to send some home with you....but I also wanted to let you know where you can buy it. Right next door to Meadows Farm, on Route 3, is Booth Feeds. This is on the block immediately before the Rite Aid where you turn....so it is on your way! They sell the puppy food there. You could by a 10 lb bag...or a 40 lb bag. Just tell them what you want, they will pull it from the shelf and put it in your car for you. Very convenient and fast!
The pups should be fed three times a day. (the crate is a good place for mealtime) A suggested schedule is 7 am, 12 noon, and 5 pm. By not feeding after 5 pm the pup is more able to make it through the night without having to go outside. It is very important that you feed them often so they don't suffer low blood sugar. (I will write a post about that soon.) Feed the puppy wait 15 minutes, offer water, and then take him/her out to go potty, then spend 30 minutes to play with puppy. Keep to this schedule until about 14-18 wks of age. At this time you can switch to 2 meals a day.
Also please note that their immunities will be at their lowest for the first 10 days that they are home, because of stress and other changes. Treat them with care and they will get through this time just fine.
Bringing your puppy home
It is an exciting day to bring a puppy home, but it does come with its moments of anxiety. Hopefully if you know what to expect ahead of time, these anxieties can be relieved somewhat.
First of all, when the puppies ride home, it is not uncommon for them to cry or whine. Just driving in the car itself is something new. When I took the pups to the vet, a few of the pups complained very loudly in the car. They just were not sure about the motion of the vehicle. On a long car ride, your puppy might also get car sick. So be prepared with a towel for him to sit on. It is recommended that you come with a companion so that someone can drive and the other person can hold the puppy. This makes it a little easier on the pup.
Your puppy will miss his littermates a bit as well. He is probably not crying for his Mom since Dixie has not been hanging out much with them for several weeks now. She does romp with them sporadically during the day....and she may let them nurse once or twice a day for a couple minutes...but she has been separating herself from them naturally.
Let your pup be near you as much as you are able and you will quickly replace his litter.
It is hardest for the puppy at night time, because he has always had a furry friend to curl up with. Do not sleep with your dog...that is a bad habit that can also lead to behavioral issues. Do not lock your pup up in a basement or laundry room if he whines or cries...it will only add to his anxiety. The best thing to do, is to tether your puppy to your bed, so that he can be near you, smell you and hear your breathing. As long as he is tethered, it is unlikely he will soil your rug. Remember pups naturally keep their bedding clean. Being close to you is comforting to him, and will help him bond to you. He will go to sleep much easier. If he seems happy in his crate, then you could also crate him in your room.
If the puppy has been sleeping quietly for several hours in the night and then wakes up and starts crying again....chances are he needs to use the potty. You will need to take him out to relieve himself...in time you may reduce his night time liquids....his bladder will mature a well....and then he will sleep through the night.
First of all, when the puppies ride home, it is not uncommon for them to cry or whine. Just driving in the car itself is something new. When I took the pups to the vet, a few of the pups complained very loudly in the car. They just were not sure about the motion of the vehicle. On a long car ride, your puppy might also get car sick. So be prepared with a towel for him to sit on. It is recommended that you come with a companion so that someone can drive and the other person can hold the puppy. This makes it a little easier on the pup.
Your puppy will miss his littermates a bit as well. He is probably not crying for his Mom since Dixie has not been hanging out much with them for several weeks now. She does romp with them sporadically during the day....and she may let them nurse once or twice a day for a couple minutes...but she has been separating herself from them naturally.
Let your pup be near you as much as you are able and you will quickly replace his litter.
It is hardest for the puppy at night time, because he has always had a furry friend to curl up with. Do not sleep with your dog...that is a bad habit that can also lead to behavioral issues. Do not lock your pup up in a basement or laundry room if he whines or cries...it will only add to his anxiety. The best thing to do, is to tether your puppy to your bed, so that he can be near you, smell you and hear your breathing. As long as he is tethered, it is unlikely he will soil your rug. Remember pups naturally keep their bedding clean. Being close to you is comforting to him, and will help him bond to you. He will go to sleep much easier. If he seems happy in his crate, then you could also crate him in your room.
If the puppy has been sleeping quietly for several hours in the night and then wakes up and starts crying again....chances are he needs to use the potty. You will need to take him out to relieve himself...in time you may reduce his night time liquids....his bladder will mature a well....and then he will sleep through the night.
Which pets can visit your puppy?
Although the general guidelines for a new puppy is avoid taking them into public areas until they have finished their 3 sets of inoculations...What if you have other pets that visit or live at home? The important thing to look for is that the other pets are up-to-date on all shots and in generally good health. These are the three vaccines to look for:
Rabies
Bordatella ---also known as Kennel cough
Distemper ---a combination shot that includes Parvo. Parvo is a virulent virus that can wipe out a whole litter.
Also check that the other pet has no fecal issues.
If all of the above shots are up to date, and the pet is healthy, the veterinary says there is no problem introducing the puppies to other dogs. ...And it is really good fro them to be socialized with other pets.
Rabies
Bordatella ---also known as Kennel cough
Distemper ---a combination shot that includes Parvo. Parvo is a virulent virus that can wipe out a whole litter.
Also check that the other pet has no fecal issues.
If all of the above shots are up to date, and the pet is healthy, the veterinary says there is no problem introducing the puppies to other dogs. ...And it is really good fro them to be socialized with other pets.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Max has a visit from his Peeps
We enjoyed a visit from Max's new family yesterday. The kids had fun watching the puppies run and play in our front yard.
Best of all...Max looks right at home in the arms of his new family.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Potty Training Schedule
Several people have asked if potty training a litter trained puppy is different than any other puppy. The answer is the schedule is the same. But one tip is to dump the soiled saw dust litter in the place in your yard where you want your puppy to soil. Then your puppy will immediately recognize this as a good potty spot.
The following training schedule is taken from "The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the
Monks of New Skete.
General guidelines:
Feed the puppy wait 15 minutes, offer water, and then take him/her out to go potty, then spend 30 minutes to play with puppy. Puppy soils about every 1 1/2 hrs. Always give water before taking pup out to soil.
6:30 am Rise walk pup briefly
7:00 am Feed & water pup
Walk pup
Play briefly with Pup
Pup stays in Crate
Mid morning: Walk pup
Pup stays with you 15 min
Pup returns to crate
12-1pm Feed pup second meal and offer water
Walk pup
Go back inside and stay with pup
Pup returns to crate
Mid afternoon: Offer water
Walk pup
Pup returns to crate
5:00 pm Feed pup third meal and offer water
Walk pup
Allow pup to play in kitchen while making dinner
7:00 pm Walk pup briefly
Offer water (these breeders remove water at this time for an older puppy.)
Go inside and play with pup
Pup returns to crate
Before Bed Walk pup
Pup sleeps in crate...or tether in your bedroom
My advise for working folks:
If you must leave your pup for many hours, and do not have a friend who can watch the puppy, do not lock him in his crate all day. Keep his open crate in a puppy pen or enclosed safe area in kitchen. Put the litter box in one area so he has a good alternative.
As your puppy matures you can increase the time between potty breaks. Do not leave your puppy or adult dog in a crate for over 4 hours (adults dogs can stay in crate all night...young pups need a potty break)
The following training schedule is taken from "The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the
Monks of New Skete.
General guidelines:
Feed the puppy wait 15 minutes, offer water, and then take him/her out to go potty, then spend 30 minutes to play with puppy. Puppy soils about every 1 1/2 hrs. Always give water before taking pup out to soil.
6:30 am Rise walk pup briefly
7:00 am Feed & water pup
Walk pup
Play briefly with Pup
Pup stays in Crate
Mid morning: Walk pup
Pup stays with you 15 min
Pup returns to crate
12-1pm Feed pup second meal and offer water
Walk pup
Go back inside and stay with pup
Pup returns to crate
Mid afternoon: Offer water
Walk pup
Pup returns to crate
5:00 pm Feed pup third meal and offer water
Walk pup
Allow pup to play in kitchen while making dinner
7:00 pm Walk pup briefly
Offer water (these breeders remove water at this time for an older puppy.)
Go inside and play with pup
Pup returns to crate
Before Bed Walk pup
Pup sleeps in crate...or tether in your bedroom
My advise for working folks:
If you must leave your pup for many hours, and do not have a friend who can watch the puppy, do not lock him in his crate all day. Keep his open crate in a puppy pen or enclosed safe area in kitchen. Put the litter box in one area so he has a good alternative.
As your puppy matures you can increase the time between potty breaks. Do not leave your puppy or adult dog in a crate for over 4 hours (adults dogs can stay in crate all night...young pups need a potty break)
Veterinary Visit -- First Shots and Deworming
Your puppies had a veterinary visit today with Dr. Sharon Kensek at the Lee's Hill Pet Hospital.
She reported the following: I have examined Dixie's Litter of 5 Minature Schnauzers born 7/30/10 and found the pet(s) to be healthy and free of any infectious diseases. This pet is in my opinion in good condition to travel nationally or internationally without the risk of issues.
Each new family will receive the letter verifying this information when they pick up their puppy.
Dr. Sharon Kensek
Lee's Hill Pet Hospital
10693 Spotsylvania Ave
Fredericksburg, VA 22408
540-710-7111
The puppies weights were as follows:
Yoshi --5 lbs
Jet -- 4.75 lbs
Chloe --4.5 lbs
Max -- 4 lbs
Coco-- 3.5 lbs
Each puppy recieved a deworming using Strongid, as well as the following vaccines:
Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, Coronavirus
The puppies are building up an immunity against these diseases but are still at risk when you take them home. The boosters will be needed between 10-12 weeks of age, and then again at 16-18 weeks of age.
IMPORTANT:
Until the puppies have completed all their shots it is very important not to take them out in public...walks in the park, walks in the Pet store, and avoid having them run around the veterinary waiting rooms. They should not be exposed to other pups under 6mths of age. Most puppy diseases are airborne and can kill a puppy...the veterinary care to fight these illnesses in a sick puppy can be very expensive. Please keep your puppy safe. When you must take them out in public, hold them in your arms, or keep them in their crate.
She reported the following: I have examined Dixie's Litter of 5 Minature Schnauzers born 7/30/10 and found the pet(s) to be healthy and free of any infectious diseases. This pet is in my opinion in good condition to travel nationally or internationally without the risk of issues.
Each new family will receive the letter verifying this information when they pick up their puppy.
Dr. Sharon Kensek
Lee's Hill Pet Hospital
10693 Spotsylvania Ave
Fredericksburg, VA 22408
540-710-7111
The puppies weights were as follows:
Yoshi --5 lbs
Jet -- 4.75 lbs
Chloe --4.5 lbs
Max -- 4 lbs
Coco-- 3.5 lbs
Each puppy recieved a deworming using Strongid, as well as the following vaccines:
Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, Coronavirus
The puppies are building up an immunity against these diseases but are still at risk when you take them home. The boosters will be needed between 10-12 weeks of age, and then again at 16-18 weeks of age.
IMPORTANT:
Until the puppies have completed all their shots it is very important not to take them out in public...walks in the park, walks in the Pet store, and avoid having them run around the veterinary waiting rooms. They should not be exposed to other pups under 6mths of age. Most puppy diseases are airborne and can kill a puppy...the veterinary care to fight these illnesses in a sick puppy can be very expensive. Please keep your puppy safe. When you must take them out in public, hold them in your arms, or keep them in their crate.
Grooming Your puppy
Grooming a Mini Schnauzer involves the bathing of his fur, the pulling of fur from his ear canals, the clipping of his toe nails, and the clipping of his fur. We have already started grooming your puppy in some of these areas. We don't like to over-bath the puppies, but they do not clean themselves and a litter can get pretty dirty rolling all over the ground as they play and running through their messes.
Bathing the Puppy
Today I woke up to some pretty smelly puppies. One of them must have stepped in poop. I absolutely had to bath them. I used baby shampoo rather than adult pet shampoo, because I wanted it to be extra mild. I was careful to have the temperature as comfortable as I would for any baby. I scrubbed each one well and rinsed their fur thouroughly being careful not to get any water in their ears or eyes. Then I dried them as thoroughly as I could with towels and used a blow dryer on a warm setting to blow warm air around them. I was careful not to get too close or to scare them since I wanted bath time to be a pleasant experience.
Clipping the fur on the Pads of their feet
It is important to clip the fur around the pads of the puppies feet. Long fur collects dirt and germs, plus it is prone to getting matted which can be rather uncomfortable. I gave the puppies their first foot fur trimming today.
Clipping Toe Nails
After clipping the fur, I was able to see the toe nails quite visibly. I used specially designed dog toe clippers to trim each toe nail on the front and back paws. When you take your puppy in for his first hair cut, you might want to ask him to show you how to clip the nails. Their are also a lot of good instruction on line. You have to be very careful not to clip the wick or you will cause the dog to bleed. today, I waited until the puppies were rather exhausted so they could dose in my lap as I clipped their nails, and they did not mind being held tight.
Trimming the Fur around the eyes
It is important for your puppy to be able to see, and we also don't want excessive fur to be a breeding ground of bacteria around your puppies eyes. Today I trimmed the fur that was at the corners of their eyes and cleaned away any goop that had accumulated. Using round nose scissors, especially for cutting fur, I trimmed the fur away from the corners of the eyes. It is important to do this every now and then so the puppies grow up use to the scissors near their eyes. Invest in a good pair of round nose scissors, you certainly do not want to risk injuring your dogs eyes.
This was all that was necessary for this stage of the pups life....but as he grows the fur will get longer and thicker and the routine will be more involved. It is important to start preparing your puppy for a routine that will be a regular part of his life. I would encourage you to begin your grooming practices with your pup as soon as you bring him home.
Grooming an 8 week puppy
Grooming a young pup begins by getting him use to being handled in all the ways that a groomer will need to handle him. Touch his ears and look inside. Take hold of his feet...do his claws need clipping? Hold his paws one by one in your hand and get him use to the fact that having his feet worked on. Take a brush and run it over his fur. Take a blow dryer and blow it around and over him. If you have a hair clipper, or something with that type of motor sound, turn it on every now and then and move it around him so that he is not startled by the clipper when he gets his first clipping.
Below is a list of supplies that you will probably want to acquire if you want to keep your pup clean and neat in between regular haircuts. If you plan to take your pup to the professional groomer, you needn't purchase a Pet clipper...but there may be times when you would rather shave him yourself. Just always be particularly careful when clipping the ears, as the edges are easily cut. And when trimming eyebrows be sure to use round nose scissors...this will avoid eye injury, should your dog shake his head abruptly. You won't need all these things immediately but they will be helpful later on. I keep a dog grooming box full of all these supplies.
Bathing the Puppy
Today I woke up to some pretty smelly puppies. One of them must have stepped in poop. I absolutely had to bath them. I used baby shampoo rather than adult pet shampoo, because I wanted it to be extra mild. I was careful to have the temperature as comfortable as I would for any baby. I scrubbed each one well and rinsed their fur thouroughly being careful not to get any water in their ears or eyes. Then I dried them as thoroughly as I could with towels and used a blow dryer on a warm setting to blow warm air around them. I was careful not to get too close or to scare them since I wanted bath time to be a pleasant experience.
Clipping the fur on the Pads of their feet
It is important to clip the fur around the pads of the puppies feet. Long fur collects dirt and germs, plus it is prone to getting matted which can be rather uncomfortable. I gave the puppies their first foot fur trimming today.
Clipping Toe Nails
After clipping the fur, I was able to see the toe nails quite visibly. I used specially designed dog toe clippers to trim each toe nail on the front and back paws. When you take your puppy in for his first hair cut, you might want to ask him to show you how to clip the nails. Their are also a lot of good instruction on line. You have to be very careful not to clip the wick or you will cause the dog to bleed. today, I waited until the puppies were rather exhausted so they could dose in my lap as I clipped their nails, and they did not mind being held tight.
Trimming the Fur around the eyes
It is important for your puppy to be able to see, and we also don't want excessive fur to be a breeding ground of bacteria around your puppies eyes. Today I trimmed the fur that was at the corners of their eyes and cleaned away any goop that had accumulated. Using round nose scissors, especially for cutting fur, I trimmed the fur away from the corners of the eyes. It is important to do this every now and then so the puppies grow up use to the scissors near their eyes. Invest in a good pair of round nose scissors, you certainly do not want to risk injuring your dogs eyes.
This was all that was necessary for this stage of the pups life....but as he grows the fur will get longer and thicker and the routine will be more involved. It is important to start preparing your puppy for a routine that will be a regular part of his life. I would encourage you to begin your grooming practices with your pup as soon as you bring him home.
Grooming an 8 week puppy
Grooming a young pup begins by getting him use to being handled in all the ways that a groomer will need to handle him. Touch his ears and look inside. Take hold of his feet...do his claws need clipping? Hold his paws one by one in your hand and get him use to the fact that having his feet worked on. Take a brush and run it over his fur. Take a blow dryer and blow it around and over him. If you have a hair clipper, or something with that type of motor sound, turn it on every now and then and move it around him so that he is not startled by the clipper when he gets his first clipping.
Below is a list of supplies that you will probably want to acquire if you want to keep your pup clean and neat in between regular haircuts. If you plan to take your pup to the professional groomer, you needn't purchase a Pet clipper...but there may be times when you would rather shave him yourself. Just always be particularly careful when clipping the ears, as the edges are easily cut. And when trimming eyebrows be sure to use round nose scissors...this will avoid eye injury, should your dog shake his head abruptly. You won't need all these things immediately but they will be helpful later on. I keep a dog grooming box full of all these supplies.
Round nosed scissors for trimming beard and eyebrows 9.99
Oster 78129-600 Gentle paws nail trimmer 19.99 ---or use a manual hatchet like variety
Styptic powder- If you accidently clip the wick, this powder stops the bleeding
Slicker brush 6.49
Grooming comb 14.99
Electric Pet clipper (prices vary)
For white dogs: The beards are stained by saliva. These products are very effective
Angel Eyes beard stain eliminator 120 grams (for white dogs) $37.00 (smaller bottles available). A small puppy can begin with only 1/4 teaspoon/day and after a few months will require it less and less....a little goes a long way.
Synergy's groomers blend ultra white shampoo- not for puppies....only for adult white dogs
Synergy's groomers blend oatmeal protein conditioner
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Yoshi's family visits
Yoshi met his new family last weekend. Their niece came to see the puppies too. She really enjoyed the puppy and "Yoshi was perfectly content in her arms. We are so pleased to see that Yoshi will be well loved!
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Puppy Supply List
It only a few weeks away for the puppies to go to their new homes. Here is a suggestion of things to have on hand:
Collar - puppies necks measure 6 1/2 " but they are still growing fast, so get a collar that is adjustable
Dog tag - get a dog tag with your address and your phone number clearly displayed
Leash- have a few on hand. Inexpensive ones are found at Dollar stores and Walmart
Food- I will send a small bag of California Natural, just enough to transition to your own brand.
Water bowl - get a low sturdy bowl. Pups knock them over very easily.
Crate- highly recommended to keep your puppy safe and also useful for potty training
Blanket -a soft old blanket works just fine. Don't spend too much since pups go through a chewing stage.
Toys and balls - small soft toys are best. Hard rubber is better for larger breeds.
Brush - I soft brush will get your puppy use to being groomed at an early age.
Puppy training book - Check the library. I liked 'How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks' by Ian Dunbar.
From veterinary:
Micro-chip - ask your vet about it when you get the shots. I think it is definitely worthwhile.
Frontline- flea prevention
Heartworm - protects against Heartworm disease by prescription
Collar - puppies necks measure 6 1/2 " but they are still growing fast, so get a collar that is adjustable
Dog tag - get a dog tag with your address and your phone number clearly displayed
Leash- have a few on hand. Inexpensive ones are found at Dollar stores and Walmart
Food- I will send a small bag of California Natural, just enough to transition to your own brand.
Water bowl - get a low sturdy bowl. Pups knock them over very easily.
Crate- highly recommended to keep your puppy safe and also useful for potty training
Blanket -a soft old blanket works just fine. Don't spend too much since pups go through a chewing stage.
Toys and balls - small soft toys are best. Hard rubber is better for larger breeds.
Brush - I soft brush will get your puppy use to being groomed at an early age.
Puppy training book - Check the library. I liked 'How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks' by Ian Dunbar.
From veterinary:
Micro-chip - ask your vet about it when you get the shots. I think it is definitely worthwhile.
Frontline- flea prevention
Heartworm - protects against Heartworm disease by prescription
Monday, September 6, 2010
Mimi is now called Coco!
I just heard from Mimi's new Mom and she told me she had decided on Coco (short for Coconut) for her little puppy. I think that's a lovely name!
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Kids and Pups!
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| Kids and Pups are always a cute combination....We are happy to let visiting children hold the puppies when they visit. But we do so always under very close supervision. |
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| Puppies bring wonderful childhood memories. |
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Introducing Coco and Jet!
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| Hi my name is Coco, I am the smallest girl in the litter. |
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| Hi I am Jet, I look a lot like Coco. |
| This is me, Jet....I know, Coco and I are like twins! |
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Puppies First Solid Food
Today the puppies had another first...we started giving them their first solid puppy food. I took the dry kibble and soaked it in water for several hours to make it mooshy and then put it in a low bowl for them. They weren't overly enthusiast about this new food...but they did try a few nibbles.
I had learned from last year that potty time gets a lot messier once solids are introduced. So I have a second puppy pen that I keep in the garage. When the weather is nice, its a good place for them to be. It measures 2' X 6' rectangle, so I can put their bed at one end and newspaper over the rest of the floor. The puppies instinctively walk to the far side of the pen, away from their bed to do their business. This is the first step in potty training. We clean up their messes as soon as possible so that they learn to keep prefer clean living quarters. When they are sturdier on their feet, we will let them run out of the garage for potty breaks. But right now they are a not yet strong enough for running out doors.
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| Add caption |
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| (This is Lola) |
I had learned from last year that potty time gets a lot messier once solids are introduced. So I have a second puppy pen that I keep in the garage. When the weather is nice, its a good place for them to be. It measures 2' X 6' rectangle, so I can put their bed at one end and newspaper over the rest of the floor. The puppies instinctively walk to the far side of the pen, away from their bed to do their business. This is the first step in potty training. We clean up their messes as soon as possible so that they learn to keep prefer clean living quarters. When they are sturdier on their feet, we will let them run out of the garage for potty breaks. But right now they are a not yet strong enough for running out doors.
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| Coco is on the left, Lola on the right. |
Thursday, August 26, 2010
4 weeks old
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| We've been calling this one Max... |
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| Its a little hard to see the face with all the black going on! But he's still soo cute. |
Saturday, August 21, 2010
3 weeks old
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| The puppies are starting to explore the world! Here Chloe is thinking she can escape the pen. She can just barely squirm over the 3" barrier. |
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| Here's Pepe. He is now walking, but he's still not real solid on his feet. |
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| They still spend most of their day sleeping...and growing! |
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| They love to have the warmth of someone near. |
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| Although their eyes are open, they still have a little ways to go. |
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| See how they half crawl, half walk. |
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| When they aren't sleeping, they are usually eating. Upside down is not a problem! |
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| Chloe still prefers to sleep on her back! |
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Puppy Quarters
A few new pics at 14 days.
I wanted to take pics of all the pups yesterday evening, but after the first few pics things started getting busy and I had to be a Mom to the kids. So I only got a couple of the pups here....two pretty girls.(Oops... no, the white is a boy...I can tell by his cowlick) Sorry friends....I'll get pics of the others next time!
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| We call this pup Chloe. |
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| Don't you love that tuft of black fur on the tip of her nose! |
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| We call this pup, Pepe. |
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| He is such a darling. |
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